Canon EF-S bodies<\/strong><\/p>\n Canon’s consumer and ‘prosumer’ (professional consumer) DSLR bodies have a 1.6x crop factor relative to ‘full frame’ 35 mm film. They accept both EF-S and EF lenses, but the latter will effectively yield an image similar to using a lens 1.6x the focal length on full frame (i.e., zoomed in closer to the subject by 1.6 times). The current model naming system is easy to follow: the more digits, the lower the series.<\/p>\n Canon EOS 1200D<\/strong>\u00a0\u2013 approx. $450 body only, or $550 with 18\u201355 mm kit lens.<\/strong><\/em> First up, we have the entry-level 1200D, which is known as the Canon EOS Rebel T5 in the USA or the Canon EOS Kiss X70 in Japan. This is the cheapest model in the Canon DSLR range.\u00a0A\u00a0visual comparison<\/a>\u00a0to the Nikon D70S, which should be reasonably\u00a0representative of a medium-sized DSLR, might be useful.<\/p>\n No features are remarkable (as we’d expect at this price level), but the relatively slow maximum frame rate (3 fps) and low battery life (500 frames) could\u00a0be potential negative points. It’s worth bearing in mind that this would still be a far more capable body than the Nikon D70S (maximum sensitivity ISO 1600, resolution 6 MP) with which I’ve shot thousands of action photographs over the years.<\/p>\n The 1200D looks like\u00a0a capable introductory DSLR for low light action photography.<\/p>\n Canon EOS 100D<\/i><\/b>\u00a0\u2013 approx. $700 body only, or $800 with 18\u201355 mm kit lens.<\/strong><\/em> This is known as the Canon EOS Rebel SL1 in the USA or the Canon EOS Kiss X7 in Japan. This is the second-cheapest model in the Canon DSLR range, but is also physically the smallest. If the size of the lens relative to the body in the picture below doesn’t immediately make an impression, a\u00a0visual comparison<\/a>\u00a0to the Nikon D70S clearly gives us\u00a0some idea of just how small the 100D is.<\/p>\n Strangely, despite having been introduced a year earlier, the 100D seems more technically capable than the 1200D. The maximum base sensitivity (ISO 12800 vs ISO 6400), maximum frame rate (4 fps vs 3 fps), and buffer size (unlimited JPEG or 8 RAW vs 12 JPEG or 6 RAW) are small but potentially noticeable benefits. The only technical drawback is lower battery life (380 frames vs 500 frames). In terms of size, I’d suspect that most people will be gripping this body with a thumb and three fingers, rather than with the entire hand. Using the standard two-handed grip, this shouldn’t present any problems for security or stability, so it will come down to personal preference as to whether this body feels comfortable in hand or not. As with the 1200D above, most\u00a0of the 100D’s features are unremarkable, though the effectively unlimited buffer when shooting JPEG is a major improvement.<\/p>\n The 100D should be a competent introductory DSLR for low light shooting, but check whether\u00a0its small size will be comfortable for\u00a0you. Also bear in mind that this model is more than two years old now; I’d expect that a newer model will be coming out soon.<\/p>\n Canon EOS 750D<\/i><\/b>\u00a0\u2013 approx. $900 body only, or $1,000 with 18\u201355 mm kit lens.<\/strong><\/em> This is known as the Canon EOS Rebel T6i in the USA or the Canon EOS Kiss X8i in Japan, and marks the middle of Canon’s consumer DSLR range.\u00a0The 750D features a variable-angle rear LCD, which flips out from the body and can be rotated; this feature adds considerable flexibility to facilitate\u00a0shooting from unusual\u00a0angles. A\u00a0visual comparison<\/a>\u00a0shows that the 750D is slightly smaller than the Nikon D70S.<\/p>\n The 750D appears to have a slightly smaller viewfinder than the cheaper 1200D and 100D, but has a much more capable AF system. The 19 AF sensors probably don’t provide much more frame coverage than the 9 AF sensors of the lower models, but all 19 are cross type, which should give faster and more accurate AF performance. The maximum frame rate of 5 fps is a welcome improvement, but battery life is only slightly\u00a0better.<\/p>\n The better AF system and higher frame rate\u00a0suggest that the 750D will be noticeably more capable for\u00a0low light action photography than the 1200D or 100D. I think those features would be well worth the few hundred dollars more in price over the lower models, if your budget allows.<\/p>\n Canon EOS 760D<\/i><\/b>\u00a0\u2013 approx. $1,000 body only, or $1,100 with 18\u201355 mm kit lens.<\/strong><\/em>\u00a0This is\u00a0known as the Canon EOS Rebel T6s in the USA or the Canon EOS 8000D in Japan, and like the 750D, marks the middle of Canon’s consumer DSLR range. I don’t know why Canon dropped the “Kiss” name for this model in Japan, but apparently it is indeed called the 8000D in that country.\u00a0The 760D is very similar to the 750D, but is slightly more expensive and has some added interface features\u2014a top panel LCD and rear Quick Control Dial\u2014that are more consistent with Canon’s higher-end DSLRs. Like the 750D, the 760D features a variable-angle rear LCD.\u00a0A\u00a0visual comparison<\/a>\u00a0shows that the 760D is slightly smaller than the Nikon D70S.<\/p>\n In terms of technical capability, the 760D should be\u00a0the same as the 750D. The question really comes down to whether $100 more is worth paying for a control system that’s more consistent with the higher-end Canon DSLRs. In my view, the answer is “yes,” but for others it might be “no.” If you’re confident that you’ll only ever buy one DSLR, or will always stay with lower-end bodies, then perhaps the 750D is the better choice. If you’re serious about photography, the likelihood is that you’ll be moving to more advanced (and more expensive) DSLRs in the future\u2014and if that turns out to be the case, the 760D will be a better training ground.<\/p>\n As with the 750D, I’d expect the 760D to be a capable body for low light shooting, and worth the higher price over the lower-end models.<\/p>\n Canon EOS 70D<\/i><\/b>\u00a0\u2013 approx. $1,300 body only, or $1,700 with 18\u2013135 mm kit lens.<\/strong><\/em> This model has\u00a0the same name throughout the world, and is\u00a0Canon’s\u00a0lowest prosumer (or high-end consumer) model. The 70D is what I’d call a medium-sized DSLR body; a\u00a0visual comparison<\/a>\u00a0shows that the 70D is roughly the same size as the Nikon D70S.<\/p>\n It’s immediately clear that the viewfinder should be much better than those on the previously listed models; 98% coverage is very good, and 0.59x magnification is excellent for a cropped frame body. AF capability is probably the same as for the 750D and 760D, but maximum frame rate has jumped up to 7 fps. Even though the buffer is not ‘unlimited’ for JPEG shooting (compared to some of the previous models), we have to bear in mind that this body is shooting at a far faster rate; 65 frames at 7 fps yields a burst of more than 9 s\u2014which is plenty of headroom for most action sequences. With almost the double number of frames, battery life is much better than for the lower-end models.\u00a0The 70D is the cheapest current model that uses the Canon LP-E6 battery (and its successor, the LP-E6N), which is the standard across Canon’s prosumer DSLRs.<\/p>\n Within the Canon DSLR product range, the 70D is the first model\u00a0I’d describe as having\u00a0no practical limitations for low light action photography. Would it be worth a few hundred dollars over the 750D or 760D? If you’re looking for a professional-calibre tool without a professional-level price, I’d say “yes.”<\/p>\n Canon EOS 7D Mk II<\/i><\/b>\u00a0\u2013 approx. $2,100 body only, or $2,500 with 18\u2013135 kit lens.<\/strong><\/em>\u00a0This model\u00a0has\u00a0the same name throughout the world, and marks the beginning of Canon’s professional\u00a0DSLR models.\u00a0It’s a significant improvement over its predecessor, the renowned Canon EOS 7D. I’d call the 7D Mk II a medium-sized DSLR; a\u00a0visual comparison<\/a>\u00a0shows that it’s only slightly larger than\u00a0the Nikon D70S.<\/p>\n The viewfinder is a good improvement over that of the 70D, but the biggest feature\u00a0in this part of the camera is the AF unit, featuring 65 cross type points that cover most of the frame. This is excellent for low light sports photography. The maximum frame rate of 10 fps puts the 7D Mk II well into professional equipment territory. Even shooting this quickly, the buffer will support a burst of more than 10 s\u00a0when shooting JPEG. When shooting RAW, we’d still get a respectable 2.5 s\u00a0burst. Battery life seems a bit poorer than for the 70D, which is somewhat surprising.<\/p>\n One special feature of the 7D Mk II is its ability to synchronise frames with the frequency of venue lighting in typical gymnasium or other indoor scenarios. This should minimise the effects of certain types of lighting, such as fluorescent lights, which would otherwise give you some odd-tinted frames, particularly when shooting in bursts with shorter exposure durations.<\/p>\n Like the 70D, I’d consider the 7D Mk II to have no practical limitations for low light action photography, and there’s no doubt that it would be a significant step up from the cheaper model. But at almost double the price of the 70D, the 7D Mk II would be something for only those who are planning to specialise in indoor sports photography, or who are simply willing\u00a0to pay more.<\/p>\n Canon EF bodies<\/strong><\/p>\n Canon’s full frame bodies are intended for prosumer and professional shooters. Along with the 7D Mk II, these bodies are in the $2,000+ range, and probably more than most people would need or be willing to pay for. What do we see\u00a0by moving from cropped frame to full frame? Roughly one stop in shallower depth of field (allowing for more blurring of the background, which results in more attention on the subject in focus), better image quality at high ISOs, and probably worse performance at the borders for any given lens (since the EF-S bodies essentially use just the best part of the image produced by the lens\u2014the central part).<\/p>\n My own experience with moving from cropped frame to full frame bodies, a few years ago, was that shooting with a full frame requires better shot discipline (technique); in essence, any errors on the shooter’s part tend to be magnified, compared to shooting with\u00a0a cropped frame. I wouldn’t recommend that a beginning DSLR photographer start shooting with a full frame DSLR, unless he\/she can afford to do so, and really wants to do so.<\/p>\n Canon EOS 6D<\/strong>\u00a0\u2013 approx. $2,000 body only.<\/strong><\/em>\u00a0This model\u00a0has\u00a0the same name throughout the world, and is Canon’s entry-level full frame body.<\/p>\n I suspect that\u00a0this body exists mainly to enable Canon to\u00a0have a competing product to go up against\u00a0Nikon’s cheapest full frame body. In one way or another, Nikon has long been encouraging photographers to move to full frame, and one of the ways it’s done this has been to introduce relatively affordable full frame bodies, starting with the Nikon D700 and now producing the Nikon D610. Canon, on the other hand, seems not to have been in any particular hurry to persuade people to move to full frame. From that point of view, I think Canon has had the more sensible approach. (There’s no point moving to full frame unless you really want or need the benefits over cropped frame\u2014and you really need to understand the benefits before you can really make such a decision based on logic\u00a0rather than anything else.)<\/p>\n In any case, here we have the Canon EOS 6D.\u00a0A\u00a0visual comparison<\/a>\u00a0shows that it’s roughly the same size as\u00a0the Nikon D70S.<\/p>\n The viewfinder is a slight step backwards from that in the 7D Mk II, which although slightly smaller gives you 100% coverage. The 6D’s AF unit is a definite step backwards from the 7D Mk II, as are the maximum frame rate. The battery life looks good.<\/p>\n Canon introduced the 6D late in 2012, two and a half years ago. Normally, we’d expect that this model would be due for replacement soon, but my impression is that things aren’t moving\u00a0particularly quickly in this segment of the DSLR market. (I could be mistaken, of course.)<\/p>\n Overall, I’d consider the 6D to be better suited for general photography, and a clearly less capable tool for low light action photography than the 7D Mk II (which, to be fair, is also slightly more expensive than the 6D, despite being a cropped frame body). If you’re specialising in low light action, the 7D Mk II seems to be the better choice to me.<\/p>\n Canon EOS 5D Mk III<\/strong>\u00a0\u2013 approx. $3,400 body only.<\/strong><\/em>\u00a0This model\u00a0has\u00a0the same name throughout the world, and is effectively\u00a0Canon’s mid-range full frame DSLR.\u00a0A\u00a0visual comparison<\/a>\u00a0shows that the 5D Mk III is larger than\u00a0the Nikon D70S.<\/p>\n In terms of technical specifications, everything is a step up from the 6D, but particularly the AF unit and the maximum frame rate. There’s not much to add, except that if the 6D is an old model, the 5D Mk III is even older. In this case, I’d see it\u00a0as a sign that the 5D Mk III is a particularly good body. (I’d say the same of the Nikon D700, even if its longevity might have been due in part to Nikon not producing a replacement sooner. The D700 has been\u00a0widely recognised as a good body for its time.)<\/p>\n To me, the 5D Mk III would\u00a0be less capable for low light action photography than the cropped frame 7D Mk II, but probably gives better image quality for other applications (e.g., landscapes). At almost $1,500 more, I’d have to recommend the 7D Mk II as both better value for money and more capable for low light action than the 5D Mk III.<\/p>\n Summary<\/strong><\/p>\n As I suggested in my first article in this series<\/a>, set your budget first, then look at ergonomics, and then look at technical factors. None of the bodies presented above will be ‘bad’ for low light action photography\u2014they’ll all certainly be more capable than any point-and-shoot model currently in production.<\/p>\n If you can afford the 750D or 760D, go with that rather than the 1200D or 100D. If you can stretch your budget to the 70D, I’d encourage you to do so; that body will last you a lot longer in terms of your development as a photographer, and it will have a much better viewfinder and AF unit.<\/p>\n The 7D Mk II is almost double the price of the 70D, but if you can afford it and are keen to specialise in low light action photography, it would be well worth it. For most people, though, the 70D is probably the most expensive model I could recommend in the Canon range.<\/p>\n The full frame 6D and 5D Mk III are capable DSLRs, without a doubt, but I’d have to recommend the 7D Mk II over either of those bodies for low light action. If you’re keen on a full frame body, I think the 5D Mk III would be the better choice over the 6D; it’s more expensive, but also far\u00a0more capable.<\/p>\n If you buy\u00a0a cropped frame (EF-S) body, I’d recommend a Canon EF 50 mm f\/1.8 lens (there are several versions, but any of them would be fine) or Canon EF 50 mm f\/1.4 lens if you want something a bit better (though with lower value for money). This will effectively give you a short telephoto prime lens, which will be good for events within most gymnasiums or medium-sized halls.<\/p>\n If you buy a full frame (EF) body, either of the 50 mm lenses above would give you a normal prime lens, which would probably necessitate you moving closer to the action. For a short telephoto option\u00a0on full frame, I’d recommend looking\u00a0at the Canon EF 85 mm f\/1.8 lens.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":" Canon currently has\u00a0the largest DSLR market share worldwide, ahead of Nikon. These two companies are far ahead of the rest of the field, and they have\u00a0the most complete systems, in this particular market. Below,\u00a0I\u00a0describe what I consider to be the current\u00a0mainstream Canon DSLRs. There are other Canon bodies available, such as the EOS-1D X (flagship… Continue reading Choosing Canon DSLRs<\/span> ![\"Canon](\"https:\/\/ywo.id.au\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/CanonEOS1200D-600x400.jpg\")
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